Thursday 7th November 2002

Next morning, the sounds of the rainforest birds woke us somewhere between 5 and 6. We got on our balcony to listen to the different calls, but went back in for another two hours. Around 8:30 we had our tropical breakfast. A buffet with tropical fruits, different fresh juices, several types of bread (banana bread, yummy),... and a locally grown coffee.

We went back to our cabin, but weren't in a hurry to leave. We had some time to kill before our scheduled walk in the afternoon. So we had another snooz in our hammock on the veranda, listening to the birds and the rusteling of the leaves. Ah, bliss!

We finally dragged our lazy asses out of the hammock, got packed, checked out and headed for Mossman town. We planned to do the famous Mossman Gorge walk before noon. Along the way we dropped in at the 'Kuku-Yalindji Dreamtime Centre' to gather some information on the local aboriginal culture, but sadly we were half an hour too late to join the aboriginal guided rainforest walk. We'll have to go it alone. Well, not quite alone ... When we approached the starting point of the Mossman Gorge walk, it was obvious that this was a very popular place. We even had a little trouble finding parking space! And no wonder, once we started the walk we saw how beautiful this area is. Normally the large boulders, scattered between the trees and along the creeks and rivers, are covered in thick green moss (hence the name Mossman), but because of the heavy drought this year they are 'bold', but not less impressive. The benefit of the drought is that you can easily pick up any rustling between the leaves, so it's more easy to spot little critters like skinks or ... snakes. While walking along these neatly kept paths, you could forget that you are walking in some of the worlds oldest rainforest habitats. Nothing like a little marsh snake or bizar, unidentifiable creature crossing your path to remind you of just who is on who's turf ;-) It was getting quite hot, and many fellow walkers had packed their swimwear and took a dip in the cooling river.

Before heading back to Silky Oaks for our scheduled afternoon walk to the 'Fig Tree Rapids', we stopped again in Mossman town and had a quick lunch in a local deli. A simply deliscious 'BLT' sandwich (that's: Bacon Lettuce and Tomato for us non-Aussie folk). Australians just love these kinds of acronyms and abbreviations (EDT = Eau de toilette, 'agro' = agressive, ... the list is endless)

Back at Silky Oaks we set off for our walk to the 'Fig Tree Rapids'. An unadvertised part of the Daintree National Park area (which means = no crowds!), under supervision of the Silky Oaks rangers. It was just us, an older couple and our guide Mike. We started off in the gardens of the eco lodge, where we came across a nest of green tree ants. These ants are quite pretty: lime green body and yellow/orange legs and antenna. Their nests look like a bunch of leaves glued together in a ball-like shape. They are also peculiar because they spray ascorbic acid (or in laymans terms, vitamin C) from their backsides whenever they feel threatened, instead of the more common formic acid (not as tasty ;-). Aboriginals recognised the nutritional value of this substance and would either harvest the nests and soak them in water to make a refreshing lemonade ... or with a more direct approach, they would grab the ant by it's head ... and lick it's ass! Our guide Mike showed us how it was done ... and I (Radica) wanted to have a go. But I just couldn't manage to grab the little fellow by it's tiny head ... I was afraid I would crush it. I tried licking it's ass while it was strolling around my hand ... needless to say, I was useless ;-) Not wanting to risk it's life by swallowing it whole, I decided to give up. We continued our way towards Daintree NP, part of the 'Wet Tropics - World Heritage Area'. Some of the world oldest plants can be found in these parts. Especially the prehistoric cicades (a stumpy palm lookalike) are quite common. As in all Australian forest you always have to be on the lookout for the 'stinging trees'. They have big round leaves and a spotty bark. If you get stung, there is no relief. It is supposedly much, much worse than brushing against a stinge nettle. Another unpleasant rainforest plant is the 'wait a while' vine, with their nasty hooks. No further explanation needed, I guess.
Mike also showed us some old termite mounds. They had strange holes in them. He explained to us that those were made by a pretty little bird called the paradise kingfisher. A bright yellow and blue bird that migrates from Papua-New Guinea to North-West Australia every spring to lay it's eggs in these termite mounds. Now, apparently these pretty birds aren't too clever. To make these holes, they fly back and forth and crash their beak into the concrete hard mound. Many of them die trying ...

We finally reached the river and contrary to this moring, not another tourist in site. We climbed on top of Queensland's own 'Wave rock' (a much smaller version of the Western Australian rockformation, more 'Wave boulder' here ;-)
Our fellow walkers had become quite tired and Mike decided to take them back to the lodge. We could make our way alone towards the Fig Tree Rapids, just another 400 metres away. He borrowed us his book on Queensland Wildlife and we went on.

The path towards the rapids was very rocky and rugid. No way the older couple could have gone this far. Even we were having a bit of trouble making out where the path was going at times. But once we reached the rivers' edge again ... Wow! Amazing. Nobody in sight, the whole river to ourselves. There were again huge boulders lying in and along the river bed. According to an aboriginal legend, they were the eggs of the rainbow serpent. The spirit that created the earth during the dreamtime. JJ decided to take a dip. I stayed on the lookout, guarding our cameras and stuff, but couldn't resist to get my feet wet. So cool! JJ was really having a ball, 'Billabong Man'! (Ok, so technically, this was not a billabong, just a river. But 'Billabong Man' have a nice ring to it. ;-) He was swimming about and tossing himself like a fresh salad in the little rapids. Soo cute! LOL! Of course I couldn't resist to take some 'blackmail' footage. But, his fun would soon come to a halt ... Along the bank a young couple arrived ... the guy was dangling a snake from his hand. (another harmless marsh snake). JJ was quick out of the water and into his pants.
We continued our way back towards Silky Oaks along the tricky path and were making good time. It gets dark very early and very quickly here in Northern Queensland. Needless to say, we definitely wanted to reach the lodge before dark.

When we got back (at about 5:00) we just had time for a quick thank you to Mike for the great explanations and for lending us his book ... and then off we were to Port Douglas.